Panama, Present Day

This is a short update to bring us to real time before we circle back and share more from the thornier parts of the journey. Time continues to pass by and I continue to get further behind in updating on svKaikoa.

It still feels unreal to say it, but we’re in PANAMA.

From Maryland to the Canal

We left Maryland just over a year ago, and Kaikoa has carried us through an unforgettable chain of islands and countries. And now we find ourselves in the Shelter Bay Marina, sitting at the Caribbean entrance of the Panama Canal.

Haul-Out, Round Three

Yup, we hauled out AGAIN.
That makes three haul-outs in a year and a half. Not a trend we’re trying to continue. Thankfully we have some boat friends to lighten the mood! This was a semi-forced haul-out as we discovered some damage below the waterline.

sv Big Lost - stoked to have our buddies on the dock!

Somewhere between Bonaire and Colombia, we picked up a crack in one of Kaikoa’s mini keels (likely caused from a log). Adam discovered it in Colombia and did the research to confirm it was safe to continue sailing, as the keels are designed to protect the propeller and shaft. We had two options for a haul-out, Linton Bay or Shelter Bay. Shelter Bay got back to us immediately, and we were able to schedule a haul-out before the Arc Rally arrived.

Crack runs from the top of the mini-keel and runs underneath on the bottom side.

Adam taping off and prepping mini keel for repair

Replacing blackwater overboard thru-hull and valve

Since the boat was already coming out of the water, we leaned in. Adam was going to have the Shelter Bay crew handle the sanding and paint but as our crew member Loïc offered to assist Adam, the two of them handled the messy job. In addition to sanding/painting, Adam sealed the mini keel, replaced Marelon thru-hulls, updated Y-valves, chased down dripping fittings, cleaned up wiring, and tackled countless other projects. We also broke a solar panel in Linton Bay, so panels were rearranged on the arch and replacement parts will be purchased shortly.

When Boats Add to the List

As if on cue, Kaikoa decided to add a little drama. Just after launching, we were making our way down the busy docks to our slip, tucked between an Outremer and an Antares when our port-side throttle failed.

Thankfully, Adam stayed calm and the Shelter Bay dock crew jumped in, getting us tied up safely without further excitement. And because boats have a sense of humor, it turns out we’re following in the footsteps of our sister ship, sv REACH who recently had throttle issues of their own and were apparently in the very same slip while at Shelter Bay.

So that pushed a few items higher on the priority list. Adam called around and found a port-side throttle replacement option. Naturally, it wasn’t just the cable but the electronics box +cable. Adam has also been ordering and tracking down a new windlass, researching a secondary autopilot system, and carrying as many sensible spares as space allows. Major systems are being reviewed one by one as we prepare for longer, more remote sailing across the Pacific.

Adam has also spent countless hours maintaining the engines and dialing in our Victron system to maximize power efficiency and safety. His priorities remain unchanged: “Make it work, make it safe, make it comfortable and then make it pretty.” Which means my cosmetic wish list can wait…though if we’re stuck in a marina, we might as well make progress where we can (i.e. make it a little prettier).

Preparing for the Panama Canal

Next up: the Panama Canal.

We hired an agent to guide us through the process, handle paperwork, coordinate line and fender rentals, and make sure nothing is overlooked. Having someone local who knows the system has been invaluable. Our canal date is scheduled for February 17th (fingers crossed that date aligns with our shipping and retrieval of new parts).

To transit the canal, you need five adults onboard to manage lines, or you hire line handlers. Luckily, our buddy boat SeaBella is joining us for the crossing. They’re not heading across the Pacific this season, but we couldn’t imagine doing the Panama Canal without them. Even Indy the dog will make the crossing with us. One last sleepover, one last shared adventure before we part ways on the Pacific side. No doubt our crew will be a weeping mess. Really lucky to have found such a cool boat to sail 3,000 nautical miles with!

Pacific Side

It’s around 800 nautical miles to the Galápagos. Before departing Panama, Adam and I will tackle final projects, monitor weather windows, and do the bulk of our long-term provisioning here on mainland Panama. There is a PriceMart (like Costco) and many other grocery stores that we look forward to visiting before we set off.

We can re-provision in the Galápagos, but we’re planning to do most of our stocking now. The Galápagos has strict biosecurity rules around fresh produce, meats, and imports, so careful planning and creativity will be needed. I am curious to see how much food we actually consume, as this will be our longest passage yet.

GalApagos and Beyond

We’re ridiculously excited to welcome our first real guests aboard (outside of our awesome crew member, Loïc) the Busby crew.

They’ll be joining us in the Galápagos for a few weeks so we can bounce around the three islands we’re allowed to sail to and pack in as much fun as possible: surfing, hiking, snorkeling, diving, and everything in between. Harbor and Aria are STOKED because adventures are always better with their buddies onboard.

Not only are the Busby’s are a great time but they’ll also be schlepping all the crap we can’t get in Panama over to the Galápagos for us. What are lifelong friends for if not hauling boat supplies across international borders?

Once they hop aboard, Loïc will head ashore for a few weeks to take part in a volunteer opportunity before rejoining us for the Pacific crossing. Stoke is high, logistics are questionable (because it’s boat life).

While we’re in shelter Bay marina

Adam has been working non-stop on the boat, kids and I take daily breaks to jump in the pool. We tear the boat apart and shuffle stuff around constantly. We’re itching to get off the dock but patience is key and to be honest, the stuff has to be done.

Resources & Support Along the Way

Between research, YouTube rabbit holes, Google searches, and advice from sailors near and far, we’re grateful for the people helping us! Friends and family back home always ask how we know where to go, what to do, etc. Well there are several nautical based websites and apps we use, Noonsite, No Foreign Land, SeaPeople, Navily, and WhatsApp groups based on region. In addition to all those online resources, we are also working with some awesome people.

PanamA

Stanley Scott – Panama Canal & Clearance Agent
Website: https://agent-stanley.com
Phone / WhatsApp: +507 6523-3991
Email: navierastanleys.a@gmail.com

Stanley has helped us navigate canal paperwork, requirements, rentals, and logistics on the Caribbean side of Panama. Responsive, clear, and easy to work with.

Shelter Bay Marina – Caribbean entrance to the Panama Canal
Website: https://www.shelterbaymarina.com
Phone: +507 443-3049

Shelter Bay is our base for the current haul-out, repairs, provisioning logistics, and final preparations before transiting the Panama Canal.

GalApagos

Javier Plúa Rizzi - Galápagos Agent
Website: https://yachtagentsgalapagos.com/our-crew/#
Phone / WhatsApp: +593 98 722 9577

Javier is our Galápagos agent, assisting with permits, regulations, and logistics in one of the most tightly managed and special cruising grounds in the world. Our buddies the Czetwertynski family on SeaXII had nothing but awesome things to say about Javier and his assistance in planning their time and excursions in the Galápagos.

Big Picture Planning & the Pacific

Sailing Consultants
We work with Jamie & Behan from Sailing Totem for weather analysis, routing, and long-range passage planning. We’ve leaned on them off and on throughout our cruising life, especially during the transition from Coast Guard life to full-time cruising!

Jamie and Behan bring years of cruising perspective and info, while always leaving the final calls to Adam and Kaikoa. They help us zoom out and stay on track.

Stay Tuned

I’m still playing catch-up on blog posts, trying to guilt (and gently force) the family into helping write a few. We’ll circle back to share more from the Caribbean while attempting to keep pace with the present. Thanks for following along.

~Brandy & crew

Currently In Panama