Panama Canal

We Crossed the Panama Canal

February 18th & 19th, Kaikoa did something we have dreamed about for years.

We crossed the Panama Canal.

And I still don’t have words big enough.

Pride
Elation
Stoke
Wonder

Our buddy boat SeaBella won’t be crossing this season. So we asked them to join us on one final SeaBella/Kaikoa adventure. One more wild memory before our bows point in opposite directions. Thankfully Rob and Rachel said, yes!

So we crammed in four extra humans, added our French crew Loïc, and suddenly had nine aboard, this is not counting the required canal advisor that would come on board during the actual transit.

Farewell friends → see you on the Pacific side

Rob, Rachel, Sibēal, Seamus and Indie showed up on the 16th in preparation of departing the 17th. But like all boat plans, they change. So, we soaked up the extra time we had with them. The last few days were a blur. Last minute runs into Colón, boat work, dinners with our boat besties and lots of laughs and maybe a few sneaky tears. The morning of departure we were waiting to close out our bill at the marina, collect some Chinese food that our advisor Stanley had arranged for us for the first dinner on board and say good-bye to some friends. It was wild, just as we were leaving our buddies from the San Blas were rolling in, La Vida Shred and Pallaran came and said good-bye as soon as they got tied down. And our buddies Big Lost & One Day were there too.

Kids had no idea things were a little tense

We left Shelter Bay on a high that felt almost electric.

Just past the breakwall, Adam realized the port engine wasn’t responding correctly. The new Zeus regulator was throwing off the RPM gauge. My stomach dropped. Anxiety gripped me and I was trying to remain calm. If you have to re-schedule your canal crossing within a few days of crossing, it’s a sweet $2,000 cancellation fee and another to $2,000 to reschedule.

Adam jumped in the crocodile water. Cleaned the props. Found the port prop wasn’t feathering properly. Barnacles removed. System working again. We practiced anchor drops. Tested the new windlass install (beautifully done, minor tweaks only).

Rob at the helm so Adam could find longer lines that we were told were necessary…

Sun was starting to set and it was time to head towards the first set of locks

Crisis averted. We all needed a little break before meeting the advisor. They have the boats transiting the canal anchor just outside of the marina where a boat will come and drop off an advisor on each boat.

Our first advisor, Edgar, boarded. Plans shifted again and again while we approached the Gatun Locks. Edgar was on the radio with the other advisors trying to decide the best way to raft up to Blue Marlin and Lorikeet. We were assigned the middle position in a three-boat raft - a role that meant we would help drive the entire unit. It was a tad messy in the beginning with mixed messages from the other advisors. But we finally got it all sorted.

A monohull on port (Blue Marlin, Norwegian)
An Outremer on starboard (Lorikeet, Australian)
A tanker looming ahead.

By the time we entered around 6:30 pm, the sun had set and the canal glowed under bright lights. We rose behind a massive tanker, feeling tiny and exhilarated.

Lines thrown from above by the canal. Controlled chaos. The port and starboard vessels were required to manage the lines (let out or take back in). Adrenaline everywhere.

The first three locks - Caribbean to Pacific - lift you up. Slowly. Powerfully. Almost magically.

Most of us were in awe.

Harbor? Terrified!

It took two locks before he trusted that the tanker wasn’t going to back into us and that the walls weren’t going to swallow the boat whole. By the third, he was watching in wonder like the rest of us and snacking on popcorn on the top deck.

Seamus, Sibēal and Aria enjoying the ride

Second Lock

In between the feeling of awe, Rob and Rachel were in the galley ensuring everyone was fed. The Chinese fried rice that was delivered was a massive win!

We exited the locks and navigated in the pitch dark. Tied to a mooring buoy for the night. Had celebration sips and gave high-fives.

And then came 2 a.m.

Harbor woke me - itchy skin and concern about water in the port head. I investigated.

Overflowing saltwater head.
False floor flooded.
Two inches of standing water over the bilge.

Activated pumps. Dried floors. Whispered conversation with Adam. “Port head is flooded, I think it’s a morning problem.”

But I didn’t really sleep after that. It was rolly, loud (dagger boards were banging from some side swell), and butterflies in my stomach.

Water was making he blue mat float (YIKES).

Morning came early. Rob became galley wizard - feeding nine hungry sailors and the advisor. Our new advisor, Señor Hector, stepped aboard just 8 a.m. Rob whipped up a breakfast skillet for Señor Hector and cut up some fruit. Then a massive farmers skillet for the rest of the crew.

Tied to the large mooring

We motored across Gatun Lake in thick, still air. The kind that makes you sticky. We were the lead boat again, responsible for keeping timing as we prepared to share the final locks with another tanker.

Just two bros hiding under the boom for some shade, chatting about life

Sharing the waterways with GIANTS

Dark clouds rolled in.

The Pacific side locks take you down.

Rain fell. Spirits lifted.

Centennial Bridge and rain on the horizon

Brandy, Rob, and Loïc handling the lines to raft up to Blue Marlin

Enjoying the view

Rob, Rachel, Adam and Brandy

Brandy & Rachel - last lock

We soaked in the beautiful jungle surrounding the lake.

Adam steered Kaikoa while calmly giving helm commands to the boats on either side so we moved as one machine. The advisor barely intervened. He was impressed. I mean, I guess being a ship driver in the Coast Guard really prepared him for this role! Haha.

Three locks later

You could smell it.

The Pacific.

Different air. Different energy.

Everyone came on deck for the final descent. When the gates opened and we motored out, the cheer that erupted felt like years of dreaming released all at once.

Last lock crew picture (SeaBella, Kaikoa + Loïc)

Skipper pretty happy

Gazing through the last lock

Pacific Side - Panama City in the distance

Kaikoa has safely navigated the Caribbean.

We are now on the Pacific side.

We popped champagne.
Juice for the kids.
Toasted. Laughed. Maybe cried. And got some funny pictures.

And just like that - the high settles into something softer.

We did it!

Cheers to the Pacific!

Exhaustion.
Ocean swell.
And the ache of watching SeaBella head back toward Linton Bay while we sail west they will call the Caribbean home again.

This one will live in our bones forever.

Celebratory cheers with the BEST crew

We had one last night with the crew of SeaBella before they returned to the Caribbean side. Such a special moment to share with friends that have become family.

Videos will be loaded to our instagram page and Facebook. We have some mini clips, we have some longer ones that the kids made. It was a very exciting moment. Now we are doing the last minute hustle to get our ducks in a row to cross to the Galapagos.

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Pacific Provisioning